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Floor Standing Router Table
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Heavy Duty Casters
A floor standing router table offers two advantages over smaller router tables that you can mount on your bench. Aside from the fact that it doesn't take up space on the bench, it gives you storage drawers to keep your bits, routers, and related accessories. The basic carcass construction on this router table uses dowel joinery. The drawers, as shown here, are joined with dovetails, but as well the alternative of a simple locking groove joint is shown.
Cut out list Floor Standing Router Table
4- 3/4 x 2 x 36-1/4 vertical posts 6- 3/4 x 2 x 16 side rails 12- 3/4 x 2 x 18-1/2 front and rear rails, and front and rear drawer frame rails 6- 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 17 drawer frame runners
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Floor Standing Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking
2- 1/4 x 16-1/2 x 17-3/4 side plywood 1- 1/4 x 19 x 19 plywood carcass top 2- 1/2 (or 3/4) x 5 x 18-3/8 drawer front and rear 2- 1/2 (or 3/4) x 5 x 19 drawer sides 2- 1/2 (or 3/4) x 10 x 18-3/8 drawer front and rear 2- 1/2 (or 3/4) x 10 x 19 drawer sides 2- 1/4 x 17-7/8 x 18-1/2 plywood drawer bottoms 2- 1/2 x 2 x 18-3/4 drawer guides 2- 1/2 x 1 x 17 drawer guides 1- 3/4 x 3/4 x 28 particleboard top 4- 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 30 border
Resources for building a Floor Standing Router Table
Casters | Router Bits | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Dowel Jigs and dowels | Chisels | Clamps | Dado Sets | Drill Presses | Glues | Measuring Tools | Miter Gauges | Routers | Sanders | Table Saws
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Floor Standing Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking
Begin by getting out your stock, looking for very straight pieces for the drawer frame components. Since these pieces hold the drawers and guide them as they slide in and out, bowed parts will cause the drawers to bind. However, if the side frame parts are slightly bowed you will straighten them up when the carcass gets glued up. You should, however, be able to guarantee that all edges are straight with a straightedge jig at the table saw or a jointer.
Self-Centering Dowel Jig Kit
Photo 1- Use a dowel jig to bore holes for dowels that join the rails to the vertical posts, as well as for joining the drawer frames to the vertical posts.
Porter Cable 12 Volt Battery Drill Factory reconditionedlower price on a good tool.
For a dowel jig or dowels, click here. For hand drills, click here. For drill bits, click here. Bore the side frame components for 3/8" diameter dowels. Be sure to locate the dowel holes away from the panel groove in the bottom and mid rails. Locate dowel hole centers at 5/8" and 1-1/4" from the bottom of the bottom rail, and the same distances from the top of the mid rail. On the top rails, locate them at 1/2" and 1-1/2" from the top. Carefully mark out the parts before boring. Use a dowel jig as in photo 1 to bore the holes. 3/8" dowel pins purchased in hardware stores are commonly 2" long, so bore just over 1" deep into both the rail ends and post edges. Next bore the inside faces of the posts for the carcass rails as well as the drawer frames. For this you'll need a dowel jig capable of reaching across a 2" width, which some won't do. You can also set up on the drill press for these holes. Center the holes for the drawer frames along the width of the posts, and locate those for the carcass rails at 3/8" from the edge. Set the heights of the holes for the carcass rails so that they will be at 1/2" from the edges of the rails themselves. Bore these holes at about 9/16" deep.
Brad Point Bits Buy a set of 7 or individual bits.
Delta 12" Drill Press For drill presses, click here.
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Floor Standing Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking
6" Carbide Dado Set Economical Freud dado set.
Cut out plywood panels for these frames at the given dimensions. Make a groove along the inside edges of the frame parts for the plywood at the table saw. Use a dado, or make multiple cuts with your combination blade, with the depth of cut set at 1/4". Stop the cuts along the edges of the posts so that they do not extend above the enclosed lower section of the cabinet. Mark the posts so that you can see where to stop the cut as it is made on the table saw, and mark the table saw so you know where the front of the blade is. Push the part into the cut and when you see that you have pushed far enough, lift the part off the saw. Keep your fingers away from the blade area. For dado sets, click here. For table saws, click here.
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Pipe Clamps One of the most versatile clamps, because you can use them with pipe of any length.
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Photo 2- Glue together the side frames as shown. Check them for square and adjust as necessary.
For clamps, click here. For glues, click here. Before you glue up the side frames, cut a 1/4" deep x 1/4" wide rabbet along the inside top edge of the mid rails for the plywood table to fit within. Do the same on the inside top edges of the front and rear mid rails, since it's the same setup. Glue up the side frames as shown in photo 2.
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C-Clamps Various different sizes.
Photo 3- Join the drawer frames with groove and tenon joints cut at the table saw, then glue them up as shown. Install drawer guides in the front and rear pieces.
Blue Chip Bevel Edge Chisels Good set of basic bench chisels.
Construct drawer frames using a tenon and groove joint, with ½" deep grooves in the drawer frame rails and ½" tenons on the ends of the drawer frame runners. Such tenons can easily be made with a table saw tenoning jig such as that shown in the Benchtop Router Table project on this site. Fit drawer guides into the frames as shown in photo 3. You only have four mortises to cut for the guides, so cut these by hand with a chisel. Once the drawer frames are assembled, bore them at their corners for the dowels that join them to the posts as shown in photo 4. For chisels, click here.
7" Quick Release Vise
Rabbeting Bits Sets contain different sized bearings for different rabbet depths.
Photo 4- After the drawer frames are out of clamps, bore for the dowels that will join them to the vertical posts in the side frames.
Dry clamp together the side frames with the front and rear rails, but not the drawer frames, using 1/2" long dowels to locate the parts. Cut a 1/4" deep
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by 3/8" wide rabbet along the inside rear edge of the rear bottom rails, mid rails and posts with a router and bearing guided rabbeting bit. This rabbet is for the plywood back. Chisel the corners square. For router bits, click here.
Bessey Tradesman Bar Clamps
Photo 5- Glue together the carcass with a large number of clamps as shown. Check for square on the top and bottom as well as front and back.
Tapered Drill Bits With Countersinks
Glue together the carcass as in photo 5. Check for square in the front and back, as well as top and bottom. Glue and screw in place 12 corner blocks where the carcass rails join the posts on the top, bottom and middle. For drill bits, click here. For hand drills, click here.
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Sure Lock Miter Gauge With fence and flip stop.
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6" Carbide Dado Set Economical Freud dado set.
Photo 6- Set up with your miter gauge at the table saw to make groove cuts for drawer joinery, if you choose this type of joint.
For miter gauges, click here. For dado sets, click here.
Delta Miter Jig Rigid, precise tool.
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Photo 6BCloseup of the drawer side getting its groove.
Photo 7- The first step in cutting the joints on the drawer fronts is to make this vertical cut on end. Note that you can do the same for the drawer rears, or just fit them into dadoes in the sides that are set 1" ahead of the rear end of the sides.
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Freud Combination Blade
Photo 8- The second step in cutting the joints on the drawer fronts is to shorten one of the tongues.
Heavy Duty Casters
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Make drawers with dovetails with your favorite jig, or use a locking groove joint as shown in photos 6,7 and 8. Note that final dimensions for the drawer parts you use will depend upon your choice of joinery for the drawers. The dimensions given are for drawers with through dovetails, as pictured. Be sure to leave enough clearance for the drawers, both in width and height, so that they slide easily and will still do so after expanding from humidity increases. Leave 1/16" gap in height for the upper and 1/8" for the lower drawer. Cut grooves in the drawer sides, fronts and rears for the drawer bottoms, and leave ½" from the drawer bottom to the lower edge of these parts for the drawer guide. Make a groove in the drawer guide 1" wide to fit the guides in the frames. Install the drawer guide in the drawer bottoms with a mortise cut into the bottom edges of both the drawer front and drawer rear. The mortise in the drawer rear goes through the whole thickness of the part, but in the front it only goes half way so it isn’t visible. I installed fixed rollers on the bottom of the cabinet, rather than the swivel type, because the latter will move as you push work through the table. Fixed rollers will move too, but in one direction only, and their movement can be halted altogether by wedging a scrap of plywood under them before you start using the table. Or, put the rear rollers at 90o to the front ones. Then, to move the table, tilt it onto either the front or rear rollers depending on which way you want to move the unit. When sitting on all four it won’t roll. For casters, click here. For the table itself you can make a laminated top as described in the Benchtop Router Table project on this site, or use 3/4" surfaced
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particleboard as I did. Particleboard is very flat and stable making it a good choice here, but it chips and flakes easily so you need to make provisions for this. Melamine is a brand name for a particleboard used by cabinetmakers that is surfaced with thin white laminate. Call a cabinet shop and ask if they'll sell you a piece so you don't have to buy a whole sheet. A second alternative is to use unsurfaced particleboard and glue laminate to it with contact cement.
Photo 9- Glue and screw a wood border to the particleboard top. Miter the ends, and cut a shallow rabbet in the border to help locate it flush with the top of the table.
Cut out the top and border it with solid wood as in photo 9. Cut a rabbet in the border stock to locate it flush with the table top, miter the ends and screw it to the edge with long screws that will go deep in the particleboard. Follow the instructions in the project on this site titled Mounting A Router In A Table for installing your router in the top, with one addition; screw pieces of solid wood on the under side of the top around the hole for the router. Screw the clear plastic plates through the particleboard and into the solid wood. Particleboard is a joke for taking screws that will be occasionally replaced or stressed very much. But particleboard is stable and inexpensive. Attach the top to the rear rail of the cabinet with hinges so that you can lift the top to adjust the router depth setting. Again, screw solid wood to the particleboard for the hinges to mount to.
Resources for building a Floor Standing Router Table
Casters | Router Bits | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Dowel Jigs and dowels |
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Chisels | Clamps | Dado Sets | Drill Presses | Glues | Measuring Tools | Miter Gauges | Routers | Sanders | Table Saws
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