drug - ! - The Beginner's Guide to Hash-Growing illegal Collection of Banned books (pdf document) free file download at fliiby.com

"THE BEGINNERS'S GUIDE TO HASH-GROWING This book is the result of a couple of amateur gardeners coming across a wealth of desktop publishing equipment, while enjoying the fruits of their labours. It is heavily based on other booklets we have read, some of which were so badly typed that we just had to do something about it. Some of the inaccuracies of the old document have been removed, Americanization (sic.) has been translated, and a few improvements have been made. As you will discover, growing your own is not just a cheap way of getting it. You also ensure you are smoking ONLY pot, and obtain a great deal of satisfaction from watching your plants grow from a tiny seed to a sixfoot tall monster. It also does wonders for the balance of world trade. You may have tried to grow hemp plants before, usually just by bunging a few seeds in a flower pot on the windowsill and crossing your fingers. You probably got an anaemic thin plant about 2-3 feet tall which probably gave you a mild buzz. This book tells you how to grow 'em a little bigger than that, and how to increase the yield of the end result by two to four times. An indoor garden will produce about 16 ounces of grass every six months. The gardens are really quite simple to build, the only technical knowledge being the wiring of a fluorescent tube. Basically, you just hang a fluorescent light that can be raised and lowered over some pots with a good soil mixture. All the materials you need are available at nurseries, garden shops and DIY stores. Homegrown grass is bright green, and tastes pure and clean. Once you have experienced the pleasure of working with nature and enjoying clean, clear highs, we doubt that you'll ever want to buy commercial grass again. If you really want hash oil or resin, you can follow the method in a book called "Dr Atomic" - soon to be plagarised, but there's nothing wrong with straight grass. After all, it isn't costing you much. Marijuana is an especially rewarding plant to cultivate because it is one of the fastest growing and most responsive plants. The Hemp plant (Cannabis Satavia) is highly adaptive and grown all round the world. Under optimum conditions, it may grow up to twenty feet high. If you're growing it outdoors, make sure you have a very high fence ! Such giants usually grow in tropical and semi-tropical zones, where they flourish in the strong sunlight. There are male and female plants as well as hermaphrodites (that's male and female parts on the same plant). INDOOR CULTIVATION The Indoor Garden Under artificial light, marijuana grows very fast; about 3-6 feet in three months. As you want the lights fairly close to the plants, you must arrange the lights so that their height can be altered. Hang the fixtures by a rope or chain from the walls or ceiling, or from the top of a frame at least 6 feet high, constructed of 2" X 2"s. The bar for hanging clothes on in a wardrobe works quite well if it is high enough. Try to obtain an industrial type light fixture with a built-in reflector, so that no light is lost. If your fixtures are not equipped with reflectors, mount them on a sheet of white painted plywood, make a reflector from white posterboard, or (at a pinch) sheets of white cartridge paper. Don't use aluminium foil (see later). Ten watts of tube power for each square foot of growing area is adequate for healthy growth, but for a fast growing, lush crop, use at least 20 watts per square foot. The size and shape of your garden should correspond to the light system, so if the garden is 1 X 4 feet, use 2 four-foot tubes (80 watts). If the garden is 8 X 2 feet, use 4 eight-foot tubes. One eight -foot tube emits more light than 2 four-foot tubes, so try to use as few tubes as possible. Marijuana can absorb up to 80 watts per square foot. Increasing the amount of light will increase the growth rate, and the quality of your plants. The garden should be surrounded by reflective surfaces to contain all of the light. This will increase the efficiency of the lighting significantly and the light will be nearly uniform throughout out the garden until the fixtures are more than 2 feet high. A flat white paint is a better reflecting surface that aluminium foil or glossy white paint. Flat white has about the same reflecting capacity as aluminium foil, but reflects the light more uniformly. Paint walls flat white, and hang posterboard, white plastic curtain, thick white paper etc. on any open sides from the top of the fixture or frame. Sticking white card over the inside of your wardrobe is fine if you can find the white card for free. If your reflectors are the only enclosure for your plants, make them waterproof, and they will insure a healthy humidity by containing moisture evaporating from the soil and transpired by the plants. Don't rely on training pets to stay out of the garden. Cats know damn well what the stuff is, and they may chew the leaves or consume the best parts of several plants. Dogs aren't much better either. Scratching in soil is in and animals' nature. After all, look at all that time you spent teaching Tibbles to use the litter tray. One moment of weakness can destroy months of work (see "cuttings" in case of dire emergency). If the garden is accessible to pets, surround it with chicken wire or heavy plastic. Ironmongers sell plastic on rolls, and inexpensive plastic dropcloths. Cover the floor with plastic too. It will protect your floor (and, if you're in a flat, your neighbours ceiling) from possible water damage. The last thing you want is the council sniffing around for leaks ! Artificial Light The most effective and efficient artificial light for plant growth is fluorescent light. There now follows a (very) brief physics lesson: The white light you see emitted by a fluorescent bulb consists of all the colours of the spectrum. The designation - Daylight, Warm White, Gro-lux, Optima, etc. - give a heavy clue to what particular combination of bits of the spectrum each bulb generates. Plants respond primarily to red and blue light, and for healthy growth, a combination of these two colours must be provided. Blue light stimulates leaf growth, produces short, stocky stems, and encourages robust development. Red light is used for stem and root growth, and to promote flowering. The best fluorescent tubes are those that are specifically manufactured to give out light useful to plants, and have a distinct purple hue. Some of these are the Standard Gro-lux, Wide Spectrum Gro-lux, and plant Gro. Sizes suitable for growing marijuana are 4,6, and 8 feet long. Regular wattages for all of these tubes are about 10 watts for each foot of their length (80 watts for an eight-foot tube). They also come in higher wattage sizes. These are Power Twists, High Output (HO) and Very High Output (VHO) tubes, the largest being a 215 watt, eight-foot tube. These high output tubes are not always available, and tend to come a little on the expensive side. You only really need to use them in an exceptionally large garden. Regular fluorescent tubes can be used if you can't get Gro-tubes. They don't work quite as well, but they will grow a perfectly healthy crop, and usually work out more than a little cheaper. Daylight, or Cool White tubes can be used in conjunction with either Natural White or traditional (plug-in) bulbs. Normal bulbs and Natural White both provide the red component of light, while the others tend towards the blue end. Use them in a one to one ratio, evenly distributing the red and blue sources. Compared to the fluorescent tube, the traditional lightbulb is about one third as efficient, has a much shorter life, and can cause problems with it's excess heat. Not only might it scorch your plants, it could set the whole house up if you haven't supported the lights properly. But think what a wonderful time the fire-brigade would have .... Pots and Containers Plants can be started in flower pots, milk crates, institutional size tin cans, polystyrene packaging, plastic jugs, or practically any container that is waterproof, at least 4" wide, and doesn't mind having a few holes punched in the bottom of it for drainage. Grow-bags are suitable, but will need holes punched in the bottom for drainage, and will probably need their pH checked. A single large box has the advantage of giving more room for the roots to spread out, but requires a lot more soil and makes moving, lighting and rotating the plants impractical. In it's natural state, marijuana sends down a tap root up to half the length of the plant. Apart from the fact that there aren't many three-foot deep plant pots about, trying to simulate natural conditions would be impractical in terms of weight, space, cost and labour. The purpose of the soil (not necessarily ordinary dirt) is to provide water and nutrients, and to anchor the plant down. With strict attention to proper watering and fertilizing techniques, a six-foot plant can be grown in a four-inch pot. The plant will, however, grow much better in a series of successively larger pots - six to ten inch pots are a good median size, and aren't too heavy to move around when necessary. Use as many pots as you can fit under the lighting system. The pots can always be thinned out if the plants become too crowded. Choose pots that are at least as wide at the top as the bottom, so that the soil can breath and dry out more easily. Wash all cans, crates and pots etc thoroughly to remove any contaminants and/ or insects. Boil clay pots for ten minutes to sterilize them. Some plastic, and most clay, utensils can be dampened and put in a microwave for ten minutes instead. Soil Preparation Marijuana grows best in a well-drained sandy soil or loam which is high in nitrogen and potash, at least medium in phosphorous, and which contains little or no clay. The pH should be between slightly acidic (6.5) and slightly alkaline (7.5). If the pH is either too low or too high it will interfere with nutrient uptake. The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 7.0 assigned as neutral. pH is a measure of the relative concentrations of hydroxonium ions (H3O+) to hydroxide ions (OH2-). Several varieties of test kits and meters can be purchased from garden stores which test the pH and nutrient contents of the soil. Litmus paper (purple or blue) can be obtained from some chemists. Many agricultural schools or colleges will test soil pH and nutrient contents for a nominal fee. Soil pH is raised to an acceptable level by adding slaked (hydrated) lime, limestone and marl. There is no set formula we can give for raising the pH. At a low pH it takes less time to raise the level by one point than it does when the pH is nearer to neutral (7.0). Sandy soils require less lime than clay soils to raise the pH. In general, if the soil tests acid, add 2 cups of hydrated lime for each 50 lb bag of soil. On a more modest scale, this works out at roughly one tablespoon for every 1 1/2 lbs of soil. Wet the soil thoroughly after mixing. Re-test the soil in about 2 weeks, and repeat the application until the pH is in an acceptable range. Soil that is too alkaline is treated in the same way, but with aluminium sulphate at a rate of 1/2 cup per 50 lbs of soil. If you are digging up your soil, sift it well to remove stones and root clods. Bake the soil in a 200 degree centigrade oven for twenty minutes in oneinch layers, in a pressure cooker at 15 lbs/sq in pressure, or in a microwave on full for ten minutes (make doubley sure there are no foreign particles in it). This will destroy any weed seeds, insect eggs and disease organisms in the soil. It is, much, much, simpler to buy commercially prepared soils. These are usually sterilised (but if the bag has been opened or holed, sterilize again anyway) and have a good balance of nutrients. Ask for soil with a neutral pH. Some nursery-men (and women) will sell you anything, so check the pH anyway and reject any soil for "lime-hating" plants. We have had good results from some brands using composted seaweed as an ingredient. The consistency and structure of the soil is important for healthy root development, drainage and uniform water dispersion. The medium should not cake when dry (this rules out John Innes No. 3) and should remain spongy or loose when wet. Test the consistency,and adjust it if necessary. To test the consistency of the soil, lightly moisten some and squeeze it in your fist. The ball should crumble easily when touched. Soil consistency can be adjusted by adding perlite, vermiculite, sand or kitty litter. Perlite and vermiculite are inexpensive commercial products which are much lighter than sand and are sterile. Vermiculite absorbs and holds water and air in its fibre. Perlite traps moisture and air on its irregular surface much like sand. Sphagnum or peat moss is often used to adjust soils, but should not be used for marijuana as it tends to make the mix acidic. If you have alkaline soil to start with though, you might get away with it. Soils found deficient in nutrient content can be enriched by adding humus (decayed organic matter) or fertilizers such as rose food, liquinure etc. Humus is acidic and can alter the pH. Soil-less mixtures are inexpensive and easy to prepare. They work well, are neutral in pH and light in weight, but have absolutely no nutrient content. They must be carefully fertilized and are not recommended for an inexperienced grower. It is all too easy to over- or under-fertilize the plants. Two tested formulas are: 1) One part perlite or sand to one part vermiculite and 1 tbsp of lime per quart of mixture. 2) One part perlite or sand to one part Jiffy Mix and 1 tbsp of lime per quart of mixture. You can mix three parts of the soil-less mixture to one part cow manure, or rely solely on soluble fertilizers when watering. Simple Guidelines Some of you who are not familiar with gardening may be a little overwhelmed by all this talk of pH, nitrogen etc... so here is a simple uncomplicated formula for those of you with no experience with plants: Buy commercial soil. Avoid brands that have peat in their names, and not just because peat is an over-exploited resource. It is very unlikely that a commercial soil will be too alkaline for healthy growth, but it may well be too acidic. The simplest way to assure yourself your soil is not too acidic,is to put a piece of damp blue litmus paper (blue litmus is available from some chemists and garden centres) under the surface of the soil. Wait a few minutes and then take it out. It will not harm the soil - litmus comes from a lichen. If the paper turns pink, the soil is acidic and lime must be added. Mix two cups of slaked (hydrated) lime, from your garden store, to each 50 lbs of soil. Don't add lime if the paper remains blue. If you find yourself asking "is this paper pink, purple or just wet ?", then the soil is probably slightly acidic and within an acceptable range for healthy growth. Mix 10 lbs of natural, sterilized fertilizer (usually based on cow manure or chickenshit) to each 50 lbs of soil. If you have some aversion to muck, or don't like the smell (well rotted manure doesn't smell, by the way) then you can use a soluble fertilizer when watering. We use a brand called 'phostrogen', which seems to work well. By volume, also mix in one part of sand, perlite or vermiculite for every three parts of your soil. This helps maintain the right soil texture for healthy root growth. After potting and watering, the mixture should be re-tested in about a fortnight if it tested acidic to begin with. If it is still acidic, add hydrated lime by mixing one tbsp of lime per quart of water, the first few times you water. Test your water supply by dipping a piece of litmus in plain water to determine if it is influencing your tests. To pot any of the mixtures, cover the drainage holes with a square of newspaper or window screen to prevent soil from running out. Next, put in a layer of sand, perlite, vermiculite or kitty litter about one inch deep to ensure good drainage. Fill the pots to within 3/4 inch from the top of the pot with the soil mixture. Water the pots until the soil is evenly moist, and allow the pots to stand for a day or two so that bacteria necessary for nutrient uptake can begin to grow and the fertilizers can start to dissolve into the soil. Seeds and Germination The potency of marijuana is, in part, hereditary. Choose your seeds from the best grass available. Different strains grow at different rates. For uniformity of growth, take all seeds from the same batch of grass. This will help when it comes to lining them up under lights. Hemp seeds from angling suppliers are very variable in quality and germination rate. They are treated, but about one in twenty still manage to sprout. Only use those that form sprouts over a centimetre long. Choose seeds for their size and colour. The large plump ones with good colour, black, brown, grey or mottled - have the best chance of germinating. Seeds that are old, badly bruised or immature (green or white) are probably not viable. If they are all you can get, you'll have to plant a lot of them and hope that some exceptional specimens "take". Seeds are rarely viable after about three years, and should be stored in an airtight container. The crisper section in your refrigerator is an ideal place; dark and cool. You can get some idea of the viability by placing a seed between your thumb and fore-finger. If the seed does not crumble when pressed hard, it is probably viable. Many books recommend that a germination box should be built to start the seeds in. This is an extra hassle that is not necessary. Transplanting the seedlings from one medium to another often subjects them to transplant shock, which will delay growth. With the following procedure you'll not have any problems. Soak the seeds overnight in a glass of water or in wet towels to give them a head start in the water absorbtion stakes. Adding about a teaspoon of "Domestos" (double for thin bleaches) to half a pint of water will prevent fungus forming on the seeds. It does not harm the seeds in any way, believe me. Poke 5 or 6 holes about 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep and evenly spaced in each pot. Place one seed in each hole and cover lightly with soil. Carefully, so as not to disturb the seeds, moisten the soil and keep it moist until the seeds have sprouted. If you are using a bulk lot of not very viable seeds, put them in a seed tray with 1 1/4" of seed and cutting compost in the bottom. Moisten with a sprayer and, as mould from rotting seeds will be a problem, spray with "Benomyl" or another fungicide if you know of a better one. Scatter many seeds over the surface, sprinkle compost over the top to only just cover the seeds, and dampen with water and fungicide. Put an incubator top on, or put it inside a clear plastic bag. These precautions are not necessary with good seeds, but then the ones you find in bird-seed aren't particularly renowned for their quality. The seeds will sprout in three to fourteen days, depending on their variety and viability. If you have only a few seeds and want to give them the best chance possible, plant them pointed end up. The seedling will then expend the least amount of energy breaking through the soil. This is not critical and is unnecessary if you have plenty of seeds. Light System and Germination Some say that you need to light the seeds during germination. We have found that it makes little difference, and that normal daylight and room temperatures are fine. Once the seeds have sprouted, place the light two to six inches above the top of the plants and maintain this distance for the duration of growth. The short distance between the light and the plant will encourage the seedling to develop with a stocky stem rather than a long, fragile one. At some stages the plants grow a couple of inches a day, so you may have to adjust the lights several times a week. Usually, seeds will sprout 2-7 days after planting. Older seeds may take up to ..."

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